The 90s, pop and rap, the cartoon and the cult of fun in the collection of Jeremy Scott for the Swedish giant.
Here is finally the long-awaited capsule collection of Moschino for H&M, the result of the annual special collaboration with an important designer for sale in all stores from 8 November. As always happens with Jeremy Scott, creative director of the Italian fashion house and designer on his own, things are very clear, and you can already see from the name of the collection: Moschino [TV] H&M. Watching the newborn logo makes the idea better: the M of Moschino becomes the logo of the old MTV, the TV that broadcast video with a constant flow and today resembles a generalist network.
Who remembers that TV? The X generation that was a teenager in the 90s, which saw the interruption of Italian program schedules designed for grandmothers and mothers with a multisensory novelty: music 24 hours a day, uninterrupted but impossible without its counterpart, the video. Go to explain the exciting news of video clips on television to Millennials and later generations, to which H&M obviously addresses. Yet the origins of the constant flow, of the on-on (now on the Internet), of the hegemony of the image, of the realm of the instantaneous are to be found in MTV’s planetary success. If the X was the MTV Generation, the Millennials are the YouTube, and although things look very different Moschino is keen to remember a little the physics of pop culture, where nothing is created and everything is transformed.
The H&M men’s collection by Moschino
What changes are the references, and we realize the difference on the sweaters, suits, sweatshirts and accessories of M(TV)oschino for H&M. The Disney cartoons are transformed into DJs, kings of the culture of the time consecrated in the discos where everything happened: new music, alcohol, drugs, sex and love. The DJs were invoked in songs from before (Last night to dj saved my life), as accompaniers of the big and small events, minstrels of other people’s lives, but with the dance become our writers, our directors. The demiurges of the time. It is still valid today, but it all started then, explains to the young customers the 43 year old Scott.
In the collection of Moschino for H&M there is a tribute to the dance, it is in trousers with a wide-screen print of golden CDs, on a black cotton background, in black leather, but the desire to understand a whole decade is stronger tell it to those who do not know anything: the Millennials to be conquered with a treasure that does not belong to them. Will you care about it? There is a funny T-shirt, in Scott’s typical irony, where a huge condom is accompanied by the words “Ready to wear”. A spot on AIDS prevention familiar to those who discovered sex in the 90s, when the virus spectrum was advertised in an inexperienced and terroristic language.
Is the Moschino collection for H&M an operation nostalgia or does it adhere to the present? After all, the 90s have been dominating for a while fashion trends for men and women, with the triumph of suits and sneakers in every sub-category of the clothing market. Returning to the maxi-print sweatshirts or to the jeans bermudas, the sweatpants and the amphibians seems the most natural gesture possible. Today almost obliged, given the hegemony. But in a collection so encyclopedic on 90, so festive, rock and pop and rap and dance, which seems to be too safe, remains a fund of ambiguity and a question: for whom it was designed?
It would be nice, after having admired a preview, to understand what will be the age group at which it will sell more. Will the forty-year-olds nostalgic to buy it to their children, as a legacy who knows how much desired?