Kris Van Assche, with his recent appointment as artistic director of the maison Berluti, is climbing the ranking of the trend topic of social media. But who is he, and why does his name make so much the fashion addicted?
Kris Van Assche is a young forty, as it is fashionable to be in this period, although fashion does not have much to share with politics. A native of Belgium, he attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts between 1994 and 1998: the same institution where he studied Demna Gvasalia, the funambulical creative director of Balenciaga and Vetements, but also Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann (just out of Berluti ), Martin Margiela and yes, even Vincent van Gogh. After graduation, not even to say, the process is similar to many of his other colleagues: transfer to Paris, the first assistant of a stylist already established at a major fashion house, replacement of the designer , opening of its own label.
Kris Van Assche’s career began in 1998, becoming Hedi Slimane’s right-hand man in Yves Saint Laurent‘s Rive Gauche Homme line. The first and only jump of the fence in the LVMH brand park takes place a short time later to follow the same Hedi Slimane became the flagship designer of the men’s line of the fashion house Christian Dior. And Dior Homme stayed there until September 2004, when he decided to open his own independent label: the brand Kris Van Assche unfortunately closed its doors in 2015, but in the meantime, the Belgian designer undercut the April 2007 old ‘Hedi Slimane (he is 8 years older than him) to become the new artistic director of Dior Homme. And here it remains until March 19, after 11 years of uninterrupted service.
The annus mirabilis?
But 2018 is the year in which all luxury fashion houses seem attracted by millennials, like mosquitoes by the light of the lamp. And the religious attention of the forty-year-old Kris to details, combined with his indispensable color palette consisting of black, gray, blue and brown, does not go well with the generation of addicted sneakers. A cure, a professionalism, a competence, a stylistic number – to summarize – that after 11 years of experience in the most popular men’s brand, goes well with the new idea of fashion house that Antoine Arnault wanted to give to Berluti. A brand, perhaps, still too univocally linked to the world of footwear and men’s clothing, also in view of the recent fashion of unified man / woman presentations (co-ed). And the LVMH group is very attentive to new trends.
In the last few seasons, in fact, the fashion system likes to overturn the codes linked to gender identity. Surprisingly, for some typically male brands, the most assiduous fans are women who make purchases on their own. The first retailers to tune into this new trend was Le Bon Marche Rive Gauche with the operation “Le vestiaire volé aux hommes”, that is “the wardrobe stolen from the men”: the case wanted the Parisian luxury department store to be owned from the same LVMH group.